Frosty

What a day!  Work was busy as always, but that's not what I'm talking about!  So after finishing up my day and saying good night to my love on instant messenger, I made my way over to the gym as I always do.  There are three great pictures below of the "gerbil" gym.  An hour on the treadmill and a nice workout with some basic weights and about fifteen minutes on the heavy bag and I felt great!  Tired, but great....well, hungry too - but GREAT!  I felt great because I was on the list to head to Scott's Point! 

 

The original Hut that some of the first explorers used when on expedition to Antarctica is located at Scott's point and is named after their expedition leader.  Hut point is in walking distance and a great place to get an idea of just how hard the people who first explored this continent had it.  This hut was constructed to provide shelter but proved to be unable to keep the crew warm.  This led to the hut being used as a storage spot for the expedition and the crew sleeping on the on the ship.  Subsequent expeditions used the hut as a staging area and temporary shelter as well.  Enough of my jibber jabber...on to some great pictures!
 

 

 

They had sled dogs the first few expeditions. 

 

Cooking area, place to dry clothes, place to stay warm.

 

 

 

 

 

It is only about -28 today, but on the way walking back the wind kicked up to about 15 - 25 MPH.  This meant that the wind chill was around -52'ish.  Anytime you are out away from the buildings, you have your basic wind and cold weather gear with or on you.  I quickly put on my extra balaclava, extra hat, and took off my sunglasses and put my goggles on.  I don't really know how to explain what that sort of cold feels like.  I felt the little bit of sweat on my face freeze solid instantly, the light sweat that was apparently on my legs and inner most shirt (of four) became stiff as ice crystals formed.  I felt my face numb and muscles in my legs began to seize.  This is of course all quite normal, however, fascinating to experience!  You push through the little bit of pain and the muscles loosen back up.  As you push forward into the wind, your body begins to warm with the exercise and the ice melts.  Once I arrived back to my room and looked in the mirror, I couldn't help but snap a picture of my face for you.  The ice on my skin melted as soon as I entered the building, but you can still see where it is by the shine.  Oh, I haven't shaven in about five days, so I have a small beard.  The cool part, if you zoom a little, is that I have some minor frost nip on my cheeks and forehead.  It will clear by morning, but this happened in only a few seconds.  I have a nice warm room with a cup of hot coffee to go to; now imagine being one of those first people to explore this continent and not have any adequate shelter....

 

Ugly picture of me! :)

"This above all: to thine own self be true" Shakespeare - Hamlet (Act I, Sc. III)...if I remember correctly....

I haven't posted in a few days because I've mostly been working.  I also think I've shown you all the views from McMurdo that you could possibly see this time of year.  As always, though, life is its own adventure sometimes and I have struggled with the idea of telling this next story for the past few days now.  The reason is because it might come across somewhat self-serving, but there is an important message in it that I was reminded of ever since. 

Where to begin?  With pictures of course!  While I was walking around the other day taking pictures of the town and landscape, I took a few pictures of Building 007 - Chapel of the Snows.

Most of you know that I'm not religious and find more conflict between basic religious ideologies these days than truths.  I do however recognize the incredible importance religion plays in the lives of so many people and the ethical and moral guidance it provides and will never fault that.  It is just important for you to understand that this isn't about religion or me preaching about a belief system. 

When I made it to the front of the building and took the pictures above I remembered that the Pastor who spoke at our in-brief mentioned something.  He said that some of the best views of the frozen Ross Sea could be seen from behind their alter at the Chapel, and that anyone is welcome to come in and take pictures from within the Chapel.  I went inside and said hello to the Pastor and mentioned that I was just there to take a few pictures of the interior and from the window.  The only picture that really turned out well within is below and I took it with lots of contrast to emphasize the beauty in the window and stained-glass.

After I took this picture and thanked the Pastor for being so welcoming, I noticed a person sitting off to my right who was crying and praying.  I had seen this person before and recognized them as one of the kitchen staff who I know recently arrived.  No, not getting more specific on name or position or even sex; again, debated even talking about this...  As some of you who are reading this already know; deployment of any kind, even for short durations can be very difficult.  Everyone handles the stress of being separated from loved ones differently.  Some handle it well, some don't; some just hide the pain and others let it out and not always under their control.  This person was in pain.  Intense pain that was almost palpable in the room.  If you know me, you know that I can't just sit by and watch as someone is hurt or in need.  Before I knew it me feet had walked me over and I was handing a wad of napkins I'd taken fro the Galley at Lunch to this person.  In that moment they took the napkins and they looked up at me and smiled.  I put my hand on their shoulder and silently shared in their pain for a moment.  I never actually said anything and all they did was to smile and nod thankfully, as I did in turn as acknowledgment.  I didn't bother offering useless platitudes on  how "everything would be fine" or any other statement that I don't actually know to be true.  Just silence and a smile.  After this, I smiled at the Pastor who'd been watching and then I left to continue my walk.  The next day the person from the Chapel grabbed me while I was getting breakfast and thanked me.  Ever since, when in the Galley or around town and I see this person, they smile and say hello.  I of course return the smile and salutation. 

So why tell this story about a person in so much pain???  Because this person and the smile I see every time our paths cross, reminded me of something - Some of us are lucky and we were intrinsically built with the tools to handle this sort of stress and some people are not and need help.  It isn't the action of compassion I showed or empathy that I want you to remember though.  It is that the inspiration to help someone that comes from the misery of a person who is fighting their demons alone.  The inspiration that we should never deny.  Knowing that by acknowledging their pain, that we must have the courage to face your own demons. In this instance, reminding me how very much I love Melissa and my children and how much I miss them.  Yet smiling through our own pain to help someone who is in need.  This isn't religion or science or psychology; it is human.  Sometimes I forget that it is rarely a large action that changes a life or alters someone's reality making it better.  It is a smile, a tissue, a simple pat on the shoulder that lets people know that they aren't alone.   

Yes, a little on the squishy side for one of my stories - I know.  I promise to not tell any more stories like this and yes, I do have a many more.  I'll try to keep my stories more science'y or funny...'y from here on.  I will be at the South Pole from Saturday through Monday, so there will be lots of stories and pictures for you soon!  Until then....... :) 



DJ Paul reporting for duty.......

I know....I skipped a day.  I've been working my but off the past couple days, today being no exception, so I had to curb my wandering a bit.  The great news was that a staff meeting was cancelled and that opened up a two-hour block for me to capture some amazing pictures!  So how is life here right now?  Glad you asked... It is great!  My roommate is great and hopefully will get to Pole sometime over the next few day, which is where his job is located.  The food here is great as always, the temperature is nice and cold somewhere around -20, so really everything here is just about perfect.  I have to say that my favorite thing so far is the looks I get walking to the gym in shorts, sneakers, and a t-shirt....yes, Melissa, I know.....I'm a bit mental.  It is one of the reasons you love me though!  :) 

Nothing else really has been going on other than work for me.  Playtime is on the weekends really, but I did get some amazing photos.  I was walking between buildings earlier and the sun and sky were just perfect.  Remember, this is where the sun is 24-hours a day right now, it just skips around you rather than actually rising and setting.


Some walks are just better than others.

This next photo is one of a few panoramic photos that I've been putting together.  These photos are of McMurdo Station and I think it turned out wonderful.  I plan to have it blown up and printed for my wall in fact when I get home.  This is one where you need to download it and zoom in to really get the full effect.

This is a mini-panoramic.  The mountains looked beautiful so I captured a few pictures and put them together. 

 

 

I posted this one the other day I think, but I cleaned it up a bit and did a better job matching the images this time I think.  Again, download and zoom.

Yes, it's a mountain.  Actually it's an island, but it has a permanent ice shelf around it that's about 100 feet thick, so Mountain...Island......ehhh...

 

 

This is the Radio Station here at McMurdo Station.  Why take a picture of it you say??? *evil grin*  Because I am going to have a radio show sometime next week!  :)  Yes, anyone can sign up for a block of time to play music, talk, or both!  They have the most amazing vinyl and CD library that I have ever seen!  So how could I pass up this opportunity?!?! 

 

 

This is my happy place.....The Coffee House!!!!!!!!!

Just Breathe....Gotta remember to breathe!

Every now and then when I'm home and not off traveling, Melissa looks at me and my heart skips a few beats and I lose my breath.  Well, I found myself standing in the middle of the snow and ice covered street staring at the mountains 70 miles away and the something similar happened.  I know everyone is tired of hearing me say how amazing it is here; hell, I'm tired of hearing me say it too!  There are times though that this place just grabs you and you're reminded exactly how alien and majestic it really is.  If you ever have the opportunity, this place must get on your bucket list.

One of the people who read this blog sent me an email and asked what a normal day is like.  Normal is relative I think, but normal for me looks something like this.  Up at 0400, 0415 I hit the Gerbil Gym (playful name for the treadmill, Stairmaster, and elliptical machines home) for about an hour.  0515'ish, I change and check my emails and hopefully catch Melissa on her computer to chat for a few minutes.  At 0530 I head to the mess hall to grab some breakfast.  The egg guy knows has my order memorized now, so this is fast.  At 0600 I'm on my computer answering emails and planning my day based on any overnight changes.  Meetings and work through the day (sorry, I don't like to comment on specifics there) with Lunch at about 1130.  At 1700 I head to the weight gym and workout until 1900.  I grab some Dinner and head back to my room to relax for a bit and chat with Melissa (there's a theme here....).  Then I relax until around 2200 when I go to bed.  This is the basic routine I've fallen into and it works for me.  Keep in mind that I'm not exactly the most social person and am perfectly happy keeping to myself.  What that means is that other folks run their days much differently.  Some hit the bar every night, or play cards, or play in one of the three pick-up bands, or... you get the idea.  This is a town, just like any other small town.  We're just in a very very very remote area. 

It was great to get a question, even on something simple.  Please feel free to ask Science questions, life questions, etc.  If I don't know the answer, I definitely know all the key players here and will be happy to answer so long as it doesn't impact any existing research.

So the photos!  I know what you really come here for!!!  My crappy photography :)

I've noticed something with any of my photos.  The mountains look completely different to me standing here than they do on the camera.  I'm going to play with the depth quality to see if I can get close to what the eye sees.  you can download and zoom in on the photos to get a better idea, but I'm just not happy yet.  I really want you to see what I see. 

This is a panoramic I put together from several photos.

 

If you could see it with your eyes and not through a camera....

 

Why yes, that does say "Student Driver"

 

Melissa, I want one!  These are just too cool!! :)

 

McMurdo General Hospital.  Looks like a 1950's hospital because it is one!

 

How do you descibe amazing??

How do you describe something that is amazing.  Really, I struggled with that all day.  It is now about 2300 on Sunday here at McMurdo Station, Antarctica.  I have been thinking about what to write all day since my tour of the area.  So lets start from the beginning.  I woke at around 0630 this morning and went and grabbed a bagel and some previously frozen cream cheese (if you don't know what I'm talking about, grab some Philly cream cheese at the store and freeze it then thaw it and put it on a bagel).....yeah.....not good, but it's what I had and let's face it....I was hungry.  That and a bowl of cheerios made my morning bright.  I lied there, in fact it was Melissa being available on IM that made me happy first thing, but the cheerios made it nice too.  So I spent the morning answering emails until about 1100 when the area manager for the station who works with me took me on a tour of the station, the NASA base, the Kiwi (New Zealander's) base, and the two airfields.  WOW!  How do you describe it the amazing????  Seriously, this place is extra-ordinary!  Note that I separated extra and ordinary so you get it...  Extraordinary is really an understatement.  Antarctica is the closest to being on another planet...figuratively and literally. 

 

This place is like no other on the Earth.   I know that when I travel to South Pole and Palmer Station I will be saying the same thing, but damn it's pretty here.  It is also a place that bends the senses around reality.  There is this thing called Fata Morgana that basically is a "superior mirage" that makes the edges of the mountains surrounding this area look like walls.  I tried to capture it in the last picture on this posting, but really it doesn't do it justice.  When you look at the "walls" you get how big an area this really is.  Looking out at these pictures, you'll see airfields and huts.  These places are actually incredibly far away.  The mountains behind the last photo are in fact over 70 miles away from where I took this photo!  The airfields that looked so close to me on a ridge, were in fact almost an hours drive away.  I thought long and hard about what to say here.  I even went to the local bar, Gallagher's, to talk to people who've been here for quite a while and I really don't know what else to say other than - look at the pictures and be in awe like I am!

 

 

McMurdo Station, Antarctica



This is the Ice Pier

Long road to Pegasus Airfield

Two C-130's (ski equipped)

Yes, we use wind for 40% of our energy.

For my New Zealander friends

Mess Hall at the NASA Field Camp

Just wow!

Life at McMurdo

Life on the Ice is very interesting and different.  The first thing I think everyone learns is that everything here is harder.  Take for example walking to the next building.  You can't just walk out the door when it's -40 and windy.  First you make sure you have on the right amount of layers, then you need your parka, two hats, wind gear if it's really windy.....you get the idea.  Then you step outside and start walking.  Sounds great, except you just exhaled and the moisture from our breath has now created a layer of ice on both sides of the lenses on your sunglasses.  Did I mention that the sun isn't going to set again until sometime in February???  So it's bright here and the sun is almost always in your eyes, so those frozen sunglasses are needed!  So you take them off, slide them inside you coat and grab your goggles or second pair of sunglasses if you have them.  Keep in mind that all you've done is walk down some stairs so far!  :)  So now you're moving...but slowly.  It's slippery, yes I know....there's ice here and snow, so go figure!  Falling is not something I like doing, because, well....it hurts a lot more now then when I was younger.  This means that staying on your feet is a priority!  Who wants to get shipped off because they sprained an ankle or broke a leg, not this guy!



This is the main road in town, nicknamed Highway 1.

So that sums up walking, in actuality moving around isn't always bad, when the wind isn't blowing, it is a little easier and some of the gear unnecessary.  The issue is that the weather here changes incredibly quickly.

Here's a better view of the five-way intersection on Highway 1

 

Enough of walking around!  What about life, you know, eating, sleeping, playing, etc.!!  When here you live in dorms.  These dorms were all built in the 1950's, so you're not in the lap of luxury, but none of us are here to be comfortable.  In most cases you get assigned a roommate.  I had a friend (Bill) as a roommate last night.  He runs the South Pole operations, and luckily his plane made it out to Pole this morning.  So for now, I'm alone in this room.  I really hope it stays that way, but I doubt it will for long.  I have to say, I like the room.  The mattress is nice and there are lots of blankets (it isn't exactly warm in the rooms).  I have a desk and metal wardrobe.  Basically, it works.

 I don't have any pictures of the cafeteria.  I'll have to snap a few, but it is a pretty standard cafeteria.  The food here is pretty good and there is a good selection this time of year since flights are regular.  The salad bar is my favorite in fact.  There is always hot coffee available too!  There is a store in my building that sells basic supplies that you might need or that you forgot at home.  Great example here - a towel.  I brought everything in my packet that I was told I'd need.....what didn't they tell me I'd need....a towel.  Eight dollars later and I have a plain white towel.  No worries though, you can shower a maximum of four times per week, but are encouraged to shower less to conserve water.  With the amount of clothes you're wearing it doesn't really matter I suppose, but showers are nice and some people you pass in the hallways really really need to shower more often.....

The view here are amazing.  I am going on a driving tour tomorrow with the area manager for McMurdo to see the whole station and it's annexes.  I plan to take lots of pictures for you all.  I haven't been able to take a picture that can really can do this place justice.  I will try though!

I did snap one good picture today.  Of course, the little boy in me saw a red fire engine and the fire station, so I had to snap a picture.  :)  Until tomorrow.....  Oh!  If anyone has any questions post it here or send me an email!  Just remember that I am 17 hours ahead of you if you're on the East Coast, so I will be posting during your night. 

Antarctica

Creative name??  No, well *sticks tongue out* I'm here and you're not, so I'll call it what I wish..... ;)  Childish moment over, promise!  Well, for now.  I am running on almost no sleep after all, so this could really be an interesting summation of the last 24 hours.

Where am I?  Good question!  I am at McMurdo Station on Ross Island in Antarctica.  But wait, there was a flight today!  So this morning I get up at about 0300 and repack my bags making sure I am happy with everything.  Then it was off to the United States Antarctic Program (USAP) deployment terminal to check in at 0530.  At the terminal, I was with about 75 other travelers for the 0900 C-17 flight from Christchurch, New Zealand to McMurdo.  This is about a 5.5 Hour flight in total, so about the same distance/time to fly from Washington DC to Los Angeles.  What many of you might not realize, but Antarctica is a about one and a half times the size of the United States.  It is a huge continent that is covered in ice, in some cases up to two miles thick of ice!  Oh, I got distracted with details didn't I.  Okay, back to the flight.  So I grabbed a side wall seat, my usual in these type of aircraft.  Something about sitting on the skid doesn't work with me.....  For those who don't understand, the skid is the center where all the cargo is loaded.  The seats you see in my pictures below (seats in the center) are all on a metal plate that is slid onto the skid.  This means that you move around a bit, in this case they moved around a bit more than usual.  It just doesn't work for me.  although I did hear one person ask - "what would happen if they opened the back bay door?"  I laughed as the person next to him said - "we get a quick trip down to the ice below.  But at least we'll have comfortable seats!"  Anyway, can you tell I'm tired yet??

So the flight went very well and I even got up into the cockpit to take some pictures and talk to the pilots a bit.  Yes, we are all 8 years old when we enter a cockpit on a C-17, or C-130, or C-5, or anything that big that flies!  I was no exception and loved every moment of it!  We had an uneventful flight, the kind you want, and we landed on the Ice Runway just outside of McMurdo.  Ice Runway...yes, you heard that correctly.  This is a runway built on a sheet of sea ice.  This means that there is some thick ice that on top of about 5,000 feet deep of water, and we land a C-17 on it.  Yes, you are correct, it is entirely too cool!  :)  I don't smile, but look at this picture...I'm smiling standing next to that plan on the ice.  I have to admit, life does not suck and is anything but boring some days. 

Other than getting a few beautiful pictures, My Friday is coming to an end.  It is 2033 (8:33PM) on Friday from me.  This means that my brain is fried and my typing is probably gibberish right now, you can be the judge of that.

I will be updating almost every day now that I'm here.  I plan to add pictures to every posting.  The only exception to posting daily is if I'm at a field camp, and well, there isn't any Internet in a tent in the middle of Antarctica where you had to take a helicopter to get there.... ;)  Yes, can't wait for that either.  Until later......

Catbert and I - Ready to go!!

People loaded like cargo.  :)

Yes, 8 years old.....

From the cockpit.  Too cool.

I'm smiling!  Who wouldn't????

That long thing is the "bus" we took from the Ice Runway to McMurdo.

 

This is just too cool.  I want one!

Just here because it's pretty.....